Add the zucchini and cook over high heat until softened, 3 minutes.

5 whole black peppercorns.1/4 cup lard (preferably homemade), or vegetable oil.

1 small onion, coarsely chopped.6 garlic cloves, minced.3 medium-size ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped.

1/3 small ripe plantain, about a 1/4-inch chunk, peeled and chopped (about 1 cup).1/2 bunch fresh thyme, (about 2 dozen sprigs).

6 sprigs fresh Mediterranean oregano or 1/2 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano.

1/4 cup dark raisins.Originally appeared: June 2021.Picture a moment in time in which chefs are nationally famous, with TV shows, millions of dollars in revenue flowing through flagship restaurants, branded cookware in home kitchens, and frozen food in the supermarket.

That moment was 1988.And it was a fine time to be a chef.. That same year, an editor at Food & Wine.

named Malachy Duffy was walking down Varick Street in New York City looking for a lunch spot.He happened upon a new restaurant serving dishes that were radical for the time: tuna au poivre with wilted baby spinach and poached lobster with arugula, a then-uncommon green.